Domaine Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2022

Les Caillerets is named for its stones - the caillou-strewn midslope that runs toward the Puligny line, and the premier cru that makes Chassagne behave like its neighbor: tighter, straighter, more about line than breadth. Ramonet is the reference point here, and the 2022 shows why this vintage has made so many people happy. It was a warm, generous year following 2021's frost-wrecked crop, but the vines held their acidity, so you get ripeness without heaviness. Under the fruit there is a chalky cut that keeps the whole thing honest. This is not a wine in a hurry, and neither should you be.