Egly-Ouriet Champagne 1er Cru Les Vignes de Bisseuil NV

Egly-Ouriet is the benchmark grower of Ambonnay, so it's a small thrill that one of the most interesting bottles in the range comes from somewhere else entirely. Les Vignes de Bisseuil is drawn from a parcel of 40-plus-year-old vines on the south-facing slopes of Bisseuil, a village just east of Ay, and unlike the Pinot-dominant house style it leans hard on Chardonnay. Fermented with native yeasts, raised in barrel, no malolactic, and finished extra brut. The result is Egly's trademark richness -- bread crust, ripe orchard fruit -- wrapped around a spine of pure chalk. Champagne for people who want texture and cut at the same time.